Pellet Grill Error Codes Explained

Nothing kills the mood faster than an error code flashing on your grill's display while you have 12 pounds of pork shoulder riding on it. I have seen every one of these codes across multiple brands, and most of them are fixable on the spot once you understand what they mean.

The specific codes vary by manufacturer, but they all point to the same handful of problems. Let me break them down.

How Error Codes Work

Pellet grill controllers monitor internal temperature through an RTD probe. When the temperature falls outside an acceptable range or stays there too long, the controller triggers a safety shutdown and displays an error code.

This is actually a safety feature. Without these shutdowns, a flameout could lead to a hopper full of pellets dumping into the fire pot and igniting all at once. That is a dangerous situation. So when you see an error code, the grill is protecting itself (and you).

After any error code, unplug the grill, let it cool for 10 minutes, diagnose the problem, and restart with the lid open following the normal startup sequence.

ErP (Low Temp Shutdown)

This is the most common error code across all brands. ErP means the internal temperature dropped below a safe threshold (usually around 125 degrees) and stayed there long enough to trigger a shutdown.

Why it happens:

• Flameout. The fire in the pot went out. This happens when ash blocks the fire pot, pellets run out, or the auger jams.
• Ran out of pellets. Check the hopper. If it is empty, that is your answer.
• Bad startup. If the grill did not ignite properly during the startup cycle, it will run cold and eventually trigger this error.
• Extreme cold or wind. In harsh winter conditions, the grill can lose heat faster than it produces it, dropping below the threshold.

Fix: clean the fire pot, refill pellets if needed, and restart. If this happens repeatedly, check the hot rod igniter and the auger feed. See my not heating up guide for the full diagnosis.

ErH (High Temp Shutdown)

ErH means the grill exceeded its maximum safe temperature, typically around 550 degrees. The controller shuts everything down to prevent damage or fire.

• Grease fire. Accumulated grease on the baffle or in the cooking chamber ignited. This is the most common cause and the most concerning. If you smell burning grease or see flames licking up past the grates, close the lid, close the chimney cap, unplug the grill, and let the fire smother. Do not open the lid. Do not spray water on a grease fire.
• Pellet overload. If the auger fed too many pellets (sometimes after a flameout restrike), they can all ignite at once, creating a massive fire in the pot.
• RTD probe failure. Less common, but a faulty probe could report a false high temperature. Verify with an independent thermometer.

After an ErH error, always inspect the inside of the grill before restarting. Look for grease buildup, pellet overload in the fire pot, or anything that looks burned or damaged.

ErL (Low Temp Warning)

ErL is the gentler version of ErP. Some controllers display this as a warning before triggering a full shutdown. It means the temperature is dropping but has not hit the critical threshold yet.

If you catch this early, you can sometimes save the cook. Open the lid, check the fire pot for a live fire, stir the pellets if they are smoldering rather than burning, and close the lid. If the fire is completely out, you will need to restart.

HEr (High Temp Warning)

Similar to ErH but as a warning rather than a shutdown. The controller is telling you the temperature is climbing too high. Some grills display this at around 450 to 500 degrees before the hard shutdown at 550.

Open the lid briefly to release heat. Check for grease flare ups on the baffle. If you are cooking at high temperatures intentionally (searing, for example), some overshoot is normal and the grill should settle back down on its own.

noP (No Pellets)

Not all grills display this, but some newer models with pellet sensors show noP when the hopper runs dry. Check the hopper and refill. Simple as that.

One thing to note: the pellet sensor is not always accurate. Some sensors sit above the auger opening, so the hopper can still have pellets along the walls while the area above the auger is empty. Stir the pellets to redistribute them if the sensor trips but the hopper is not actually empty.

Traeger Specific Codes

• LEr: Low temperature error. Same as ErP. The grill dropped below 125 degrees for more than 10 minutes. Usually a flameout. Very common on older Traeger models with the non D2 controller.
• HEr: High temperature error. Same as ErH. Grill exceeded 550 degrees.
• Er1: RTD probe disconnected or broken. Check the probe wire connection at the controller. If the wire is intact, the probe itself has failed and needs replacement.
• Er2: Short circuit in the RTD probe wiring. Unplug, inspect wires for damage or pinching, and reconnect. Replace the probe if the wire is damaged.
• ER-3 (WiFIRE models): Controller communication error. Try a power cycle. If it persists, a firmware update or controller reset through the Traeger app usually resolves it.

Pit Boss Specific Codes

• ErP: Same as described above. Pit Boss grills are particularly prone to this in cold weather due to thinner body construction on some models.
• ErH: High temp shutdown. Same as above.
• Er1: Temperature probe error. Check the connection and replace the probe if needed. Pit Boss probes run about $12 to $15.
• Er2: Probe short circuit. Same diagnostic as Traeger Er2.
• Flashing temperature with no error code: Some Pit Boss grills flash the current temperature when the probe reads outside normal range rather than showing a named code. If the display is blinking, treat it as a temperature warning.

Camp Chef Specific Codes

• Lo: Low temperature warning. Same concept as ErL. The grill is losing heat.
• Hi: High temperature warning. Same as HEr.
• Err: General error. This one is frustratingly vague. Power cycle the grill. If it persists, check the probe connection, auger motor connection, and fan connection. Camp Chef support can often diagnose the specific cause based on your model and symptoms.
• Probe errors on WiFi models: Camp Chef Connect app sometimes shows more specific error information than the grill display itself. Check the app for additional detail when you see a generic error on the controller.

The pattern across all brands is the same. Low temp errors mean the fire went out. High temp errors mean something got too hot (usually grease). Probe errors mean a sensor is damaged or disconnected. Start with the fire pot, check your pellet supply, and inspect your probe wiring. Those three checks solve the vast majority of error code situations.